In the yellow early morning light, we cruised under the canopy of acacia thorns, the Land Rover tyres soundlessly puffing fine clouds of dust into our wake. Lewis allowed us to roll to a stop and scanned the horizon with his binoculars, a worn steel-cased pair from the British Army. We were in Samburu National Reserve in northern Kenya and this is always my favourite part of a safari - just after dawn, entering a game park with the taste of morning coffee and biscuits still lingering and a hamper full of promising brunch beside me.Lewis whistled softly. "Vultures," he said. "About two miles away, I think on the riverbank."I looked too, and could see in the distance what looked like three or four brown specs lazily circling above the trees. More arrived and joined the whirlpool as I watched, as if they were hoping to be sucked into the centre and down out of sight. But none landed.Lewis started the engine and we moved on, turning towards the river and following a red dirt track as it sn...